Exploring the Cliff Dwellings of Bandelier National Monument
What would it be like to live in a house built into the side of a cliff? The first image that comes to mind is probably the cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde but what if I told you there was another park in New Mexico that you could explore ancient dwellings via ladders!? Bandelier National Monument near Los Alamos, New Mexico offers just that!
While spending a weekend in Taos, we made a last minute decision to spend half a day in Bandelier. The drive between the two is about an hour and 45 minutes and very scenic most of the way. Since this was a last minute decision, I didn't have the time to research and plan the way I normally would have. The park isn't that big so we were able to hit the must do spots in half a day even without a lot of pre-planning. If you're planning a trip to Bandelier, here are some tips on how to make the most of your time there (plus a few I wish I had known).
About Bandelier National Monument
Bandelier National Monument is full of history and striking scenery. The Ancestral Pueblo people lived here from around 1150 CE to 1550 CE. Central to their diet, corn, beans, and squash were planted in mesa top fields. These crops were supplemented with native plants as well as meat from deer, rabbit, and squirrel. Domesticated turkeys were used both for meat and their feathers. By 1550 CE, after over 400 years of living there, severe drought had added to the already difficult life here so the Ancestral Pueblo people moved from this area to Pueblos along the Rio Grande.
Today, this park preserves a high density of archeological resources from the Ancestral Pueblo period. The most interesting of these resources are the cavates carved into the cliffs of volcanic tuff. Bandelier is one of the only places in the world where you can see these!
Best Things to Do in Bandelier
When you first enter the park you will be above the Frijoles Canyon looking down. Take some time to stop at a few of the scenic viewpoints. Driving down into the canyon offers winding roads and stunning views. There's something for everyone here, whether you're interested in a scenic drive, exploring the cliff dwellings, camping, or hiking. Below are a few of the things I recommend for your first visit.
Head to the Visitor Center
I always begin my visit to a park at the Visitor Center. Take some time to explore the park's history and refill your water bottles for the upcoming hike. You'll also find the park store here where you can pick up a souvenir or two.
Explore cliff dwellings
The biggest draw to the park is the cliff dwellings. The Pueblo Loop Trail starts at the Visitor Center and takes you along the river through some beautiful scenery to the dwellings. This 1.4 mile (roundtrip) trail is overall easy but there are a handful of stairs and, if you choose to do so, ladders to climb in order to explore some of the cavates. Halfway through the Pueblo Loop Trail, you will come across a fork in the path. Here you have the option to continue along or branch off to visit the Alcove House. This adds about a mile round trip to the trek but it is well worth. The tall ladders that you may have seen photos of people climbing are located here. The Alcove House is located 140 feet above the floor of Frijoles Canyon. To reach the site, you will need to climb 4 wooden ladders and a handful of stars. I was a little nervous climbing these but they are ae very sturdy and it's worth the climb!
Along the Pueblo Loop Trail you will come across the ruins of Tyuonyi (Qu-weh-nee). These ruins are the largest and most dramatic ruins in the park. This once two story building had over 400 rooms, most of which were used for storing food. The pueblo is laid out around a plaza and contains three round kivas which are subterranean rooms. A single passageway connects the plaza with the exterior.
Tsankawi
Bandelier's Tsankawi Unit is located on State Highway 4, twelve miles from the main section of the park. We weren't able to visit this section of the park (I didn't know about it until after we left) but I will be heading here the next time I visit! Here you can hike the 1.5 mile trail along a mesa, viewing cavates, petroglyphs, and the Ancestral Pueblo of Tsankawi. Unlike the Pueblo Loop Trail, ladders are a required part of this trail so make sure you are comfortable with these before setting out. This trail is exposed to the elements so be sure to take extra precautions if visiting in the winter or if thunderstorms are possible.
Camping
Since we did this as a day trip, we weren't able to experience the campgrounds but on my next trip, I really want to camp so I can fully immerse myself in the park! You'll find several ways to camp here with accommodations for different types of campers and group sizes.
The Juniper Family Campground offers 53 individual sites that can accommodate up to 10 campers. This campground is ideal for trailers, RVs, or tent/ car camping. Most campsites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance with the remaining being available on a first come, first serve basis. There are also 2 group sites that can accommodate groups of 10-20 people. These are only available by reservation.
The Ponderosa Group Campground has 2 group campsites that can accommodate 10-50 people. These are only available by reservation.
Backpacking is also popular in this park. With over 70 miles of hiking trails, this is a great way to explore the Bandelier wilderness. While free, permits are required for backpacking. They can be procured in advance either in person at the Visitor Center or by phone any time the Visitor Center is open. For more information about backpacking in the park, check out the NPS website.
There is no lodging in the park, however, there are plenty of nearby towns such as Los Alamos, White Rock, Española, and Santa Fe, with a variety of lodging available.
My Favorite Parts of Visiting
Bandelier National Park has been on my list of places to visit for some time now but I just never made it there. I'm so glad I finally did. I didn't really know what to expect other than that there were remains of cliff dwellings and ladders to get to them. The landscape of the park really took my breathe away. The canyon is so green and lush, the river so relaxing, and history so fascinating. I loved learning about Mesa Verde as a kid so learning about Bandelier and the Ancestral Pueblo people really brought back that child-like wonder. While the ladders did make me a little nervous, they were very solid and getting to climb them was honestly a fun experience. How often to you get to climb up ladders to explore ancient cliff dwellings?! While the park may be small, I am already planning my trip back to explore what I missed and really immerse myself in the beauty of the area.
Tips for Visiting
As with any National Park trip, a little pre-planning is needed to make the most of the experience. Arriving early is one of the best things you can do, especially during warmer months when parking fills up quickly and temperatures rise throughout the day. Wear comfortable walking shoes since many of the trails include uneven terrain, stairs, and ladders leading into the cliff dwellings. Bringing plenty of water is also essential, particularly if you plan to hike beyond the main loop trail. There is water available at the Visitor Center should you need to top off before your hike. Because the monument sits at a higher elevation, layers can be helpful as mornings and evenings are often much cooler than the afternoon. Most importantly, give yourself time to slow down and really take in the history and scenery. Bandelier can be a quick stop but to really make the most of it, give yourself extra time because if you let it, it can be a place where the landscapes and ancient dwellings tell stories that are worth lingering for.
Park Hours
The park is open from dawn to dusk every day except for Christmas or during heavy snow days.
You can check the current Visitor Center hours on the NPS site.
Fees & Passes
Standard Entrance Pass: $15 per vehicle
All entrance passes are valid for seven days and include access to all areas of the park
Annual Entrance Pass: $45
This is valid for 1 year from the month of purchase but only at Bandelier National Monument
America The Beautiful Pass: $80 for US citizens or residents
Full pricing structure:
Type | Available to | Price |
US citizens and residents | $80.00 | |
Non-US residents | $250.00 | |
US citizens and residents 62+ years old | $20.00 | |
US citizens and residents 62+ years old | $80.00 | |
Current US military and dependents | Free | |
Gold Star Family members and veterans | Free | |
US citizens and residents with permanent disability | Free | |
US 4th graders | Free | |
Federal recreation site volunteers with 250 service hours | Free |
Arrive early
If you want parking by the Visitor Center and cooler temperatures, be sure to arrive early to the park. There is a shuttle that takes visitors from the Frey Trail Parking to the Visitor Center, running every 30 minutes, from mi-March to mid-October. The shuttle is no longer mandatory unless the parking lots in the canyon are filled up. However, if all the parking lots are full, cars will be turned around at the entrance station and asked to return later when more spaces become available, even when the shuttle is operating.
What to Pack
Water: The only water in the park is located at the Visitor Center
Walking shoes: You'll be doing a lot of walking on uneven terrain so be sure to wear something comfortable with good grip
Layers: The weather can change quickly here so bring some layers so you're prepared
Camera or phone: Trust me, you'll want to take a lot of pictures here!
Sun protection: Good sunscreen or sun protection clothing is always a must
Snacks: There aren't any food options in the park so bring some snacks in case you get hungry while you're out exploring
Best time of Year to Visit
No matter what season you visit in, each has something wonderful to offer. In the winter, the canyon gets covered in a blanket of snow adding little sense of magic to the park. In the fall, the contrast of the leaves turning yellow against the red of the canyon walls allows for a striking contrasts. Spring and summer are the busiest time of year. With summer highs staying in the high 70s to low 80s, this also provides a welcome escape from the heat of many of the surrounding areas.
Nearby Stops Worth Adding
Santa Fe: Known for its adobe architecture, art galleries, incredible food scene, and rich Southwestern culture, Santa Fe makes the perfect basecamp before or after visiting Bandelier.
Los Alamos: A fascinating stop for history lovers, especially if you’re interested in the Manhattan Project and scientific history. The town also has beautiful mountain scenery and access to outdoor recreation.
Valles Caldera National Preserve: A massive volcanic caldera with wide-open landscapes, scenic drives, hiking, and wildlife viewing that feels completely different from Bandelier’s canyon terrain.
White Rock Overlook: Offers stunning canyon views overlooking the Rio Grande and is an easy scenic stop near Los Alamos.
Final Thoughts
Visiting Bandelier National Monument felt like stepping into a place where history and nature exist side by side in the most incredible way. Between the cliff dwellings carved into the canyon walls, the peaceful hiking trails, and the stories preserved throughout the monument, it’s a destination that feels both fascinating and deeply grounding. What makes Bandelier so special is that it offers more than just beautiful scenery. It gives you the chance to connect with the people who once called this landscape home centuries ago. Whether you’re interested in hiking, history, photography, or simply exploring somewhere unique, Bandelier is absolutely worth adding to your New Mexico adventure.
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