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Our Ireland Road Trip: 8 Days of Castles, Cliffs, & Chaos

Writer: Karen Israel
Karen Israel
1 day ago
23 min read

Ireland is one of those locations that I've always dreamed about visiting. With rolling hills, breathtaking cliffs, and deep green forests that make you feel like you're in a fairy tale, this was a dream trip. When planning this trip, we decided we wanted to drive the entire island, including Northern Ireland. While this made for a very packed itinerary, I wouldn't have had it any other way. We were able to see a lot of the country and while there are many places I still want to see, there's always the next trip!


When trying to see this much in such a short amount of time, sometimes you have to make changes to the plan on the fly. There is so much to do and see here and you need a LOT more than 8 days to really experience Ireland, but this was a great introduction to the country and I can't wait to explore more.


This isn't a recommendation that everyone should travel this way. It's an honest look at what we were able to experience by choosing a fast-paced itinerary.


Cloudy coastal cliffs מעל calm sea, with a lone sea stack offshore and grassy foreground; moody, windswept landscape.
The Cliffs of Moher

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Gray castle on a lake shore, framed by lush green mountains and trees, with calm water in the foreground
Kylemore Abbey

Day 1: Dublin, Wicklow Mountains National Park, & Kilkenny


We flew into Dublin after an overnight flight from Denver where we were running on minimal sleep. But we had things to see and places to be so there was no time to be tired! We landed at 9:30 am and headed to pick up our rental car. We had reserved a rental through Budget and had to take a shuttle from the airport to the rental car pickup. When we arrived, the line was quite long and we heard conversations from those further up in line that they didn't have any automatic cars ready yet as many of them were being returned late. We were worried that we would have to wait even longer but thankfully, by the time we made it to the counter, our car was ready. Perhaps it was because we had reserved ahead of time or perhaps it was just luck but we weren't going to question it!


Dublin

We first headed straight into Dublin. We started at St Patrick's Cathedral. It cost €11.50 to enter. There is an audio tour that we chose not to do but it would have provided additional details about the cathedral. We simply wandered around and admired the architecture and the stained glass.


Visitors sit in a grand Gothic cathedral with tall arches and stained glass as a singer stands at the altar, warm light glowing.
Inside St Patrick's Cathedral

Our next stop was Trinity College. I had hoped to visit the library and see the Book of Kells but wasn't willing to pay the entrance fee for this. At the time the cost was €19 for basic library entry and €25 for the full self-guided exhibition. Just wandering the grounds of the college was lovely though.


By this time, we had worked up an appetite and headed out to find some lunch. I wanted to at least walk by the Temple Bar to see what the hype was about. I still don't know that I understand why it's on so many people's must see spots. We ended up at Quays for lunch where I had the fish and chips. It was the perfect first meal in Ireland.


People walk through a historic stone courtyard with a tall domed tower under cloudy skies at Trinity College, Dublin.
Karen walking through Trinity College

Wicklow Mountains National Park

We aren't really city people, so this was enough time in Dublin for us. There is so much more to see and do if that's something that interests you. It is commonly recommended to spend at least 2 days in Dublin. Our next stop was Wicklow Mountains National Park. This is the largest of Ireland's national parks and the only one located in the East.


Smiling woman in a gray hoodie stands on a rocky lakeshore beside a cloudy mountain lake and forested hills.
Karen in Wicklow Mountains Park

We parked at the Glendalough Upper Lake Car Park (entry to the park is free, but parking at the main Glendalough visitor areas costs around €4 to €5) and started wandering around. Glendalough Upper Lake is stunning, and there were even a few people swimming! It didn't seem warm enough to me for a lake day, but they were sure enjoying themselves. By this point, the jet lag was really starting to kick in. I would have loved to explore more, but we were tired. We made it as far as the Reefert Church and the Poulanass Waterfall before deciding to call it a day.


Mossy stone ruin with arched doorway and standing stones in a leafy forest, quiet ancient site with small signs.
Reefert Church

There is so much more I wish we could have explored here. St. Kevin's Church was what I was hoping to see; I just didn't know the name of it at the time. It wasn't until I was telling my mom about the trip that she mentioned that was where St. Kevin's Church was - she and my brother, Kevin, had been there on a trip a few years prior. I looked it up and realized those were the pictures I had seen that made me want to go! There is also no shortage of hikes and scenic drives to be found. With views around every corner, you'll want to allow yourself plenty of time to explore.


Small waterfall drops into a dark pool in a mossy, fern-covered gorge, surrounded by lush green rocks and forest foliage.
Poulanass Waterfall

Kilkenny

Our final stop of the day was Kilkenny. I'd love to say we spent some time wandering through town, but we were so tired. It took all we had the energy left to just find dinner. We wanted something close and easy and Lana Thai Street Food as exactly what we needed. I had the Pad Thai and it was the perfect end to our first day. After that the exhaustion fully hit and I was ready for bed. We stayed at the Hotel Kilkenny and I really don't remember much of anything after my head hit the pillow. I was asleep so fast!


We do pretty much all our booking through Expedia - hotels, flights, and cars! I can't recommend them enough as place to start planning your dream trip whether that's to Ireland or anywhere else in the world!



Day 2: Kilkenny, Rock of Cashel, Blarney Castle, & Cobh


Now that we had a good night's sleep and had a little more life in us, we were ready for our first full day in Ireland! I quickly found that I was not going to be able to fit all the things on my itinerary into the day. There is so much to see and do in Ireland, so I had to quickly start making changes to the plan as we went.


Kilkenny

Since we didn't have time for sightseeing when we arrived in Kilkenny, we set off in the morning to do a bit. Our first stop was Kilkenny Castle. Built in the thirteenth century by William Marshal, 4th Earl of Pembroke, as a symbol of Norman control, Kilkenny Castle would come to symbolize the fortunes of the powerful Butlers of Ormonde for over six hundred years.


Woman smiling on a grassy field before a gray stone castle under a bright blue sky
Karen in front of Kilkenny Castle

You can wander the grounds for free, but if you want to see the inside of the castle, it will cost €8 for a self-guided tour and €12 for a guided tour. Remodeled in Victorian times, it was formally taken over by the Irish State in 1969 and since then has undergone extensive restoration work.


Stone church and tower behind bright pink and red flower beds, black iron fence, and benches under a cloudy sky.
The Black Abbey

After visiting the castle, we explored a little more of the town as we set out to find the Black Abbey, a Catholic priory of the Dominican Order, dedicated to the Holy and Undivided Trinity. It gets its name from the black cloaks worn by the Dominican friars who founded it in 1225. Along the way, we stopped to admire St Mary's Cathedral, which sits on the highest point in Kilkenny City, its massive tower visible from all angles.


Gothic stone church with tall spires on a quiet street, crossed by overhead wires, with parked cars and a few pedestrians.
St Mary's Cathedral

Rock of Cashel

Now it was time to leave Kilkenny and head out towards our next destination, the Rock of Cashel. Sitting dramatically on a limestone outcrop, you see it before you even arrive. You can park in town if you can find a spot or park at the dedicated car park down the street. That's what we chose to do. There was a small fee to park there, but it was worth it for the convenience. From there, you walk up a rather steep hill to purchase your ticket and enter the ruins. It costs €8 to enter, but we paid a little extra for a guided tour and for access to Cormac's Chapel.


Tourists walk around a ruined stone castle-abbey on a grassy hill under a cloudy sky.
Rock of Cashel

Some of the monuments to be found at the Rock of Cashel include a round tower, a high cross, a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars Choral, and a fifteenth-century Tower House. I do recommend the guided tour if you have time. The history of this place is truly fascinating, and you don't get nearly the same understanding from a self-guided tour. Even more so, buy tickets for Cormac's Chapel. Here you'll find the finest, most complete, and potentially one of the earliest Romanesque churches in Ireland. Great work has been put into this Chapel to preserve what remains. Therefor, the number of visitors is limited, and those that are allowed can only do so by guided tour.


Ancient stone crypt with arched ceiling, warm lighting, and a blue-lit doorway in a worn, weathered chamber
Cormac's Chapel

Blarney Castle

Next on the itinerary is one of Ireland's most well-known spots, Blarney Castle, a medieval castle in Blarney, a town in Cork. It is possibly most famous for housing the Blarney Stone, where it is said that if you kiss the Blarney Stone, you will be granted the gift of gab! Is there any truth to it? Well, you'll just have to give it a kiss yourself and find out!


Stone castle keep rises above dense green trees and lawn under a cloudy sky, creating a quiet, historic scene.
Blarney Castle

While the Blarney Stone may be what drives many to visit, the castle itself and the grounds are well worth the stop. Tickets can be purchased in advance or upon arrival for €24. A short walk from the ticket booth will take you to the base of the castle. Stop for a minute to admire it before starting your ascent. One thing to be prepared for is a lot of walking and climbing, The path through the castle is one way and includes many small, steep steps. They do have a rope to hang on to which I appreciated seeing as I'm not the most graceful at the best of times!


Two people lie at a narrow stone opening, one holding black bars, with coins and a water bottle nearby on a rocky shrine ledge
Karen kissing the Blarney Stone

As you explore the castle, there are plaques explaining what the different rooms are and how they were used. When you make it to the top, you'll be greeted with spectacular views and the choice of whether or not to kiss the Blarney Stone. I went into this trip with no plan to kiss it, but when I got there, I decided "when in Rome," I mean, Ireland! To kiss it, you lay on your back and grab hold of a couple of bars in the stone. Then you slowly push/pull yourself over the edge until you are able to kiss the stone. An employee does hold onto you, and you can't actually see how high up you are. That, plus being so focused on trying to reach the stone, meant I didn't have a chance to feel scared up there.


Tall stone castle tower with narrow windows rises against a bright blue sky with clouds, viewed from below in a grassy setting.
See that grate at the very top? That's where you're hanging to kiss the Blarney Stone!

After touring the castle, take some time to explore the grounds. The gardens are extensive, and there is so much to take in. The carnivorous courtyard and the poison garden are two of the most unique stops. I'd never seen a Venus flytrap in person before and found them to be very fascinating!


Stone castle with turrets under a blue, cloudy sky.
Blarney House

Cobh

We ended our day at the waterfront town of Cobh. First on the agenda was checking into the The WatersEdge Hotel. Our room was right on the water, as the name might suggest, and I loved looking out to see ships and birds pass by. We then wandered the streets of this charming town and stopped by St. Colman's Cathedral. The architecture and the stained glass were truly something to behold. I highly recommend a stop here if you have time. Finally, we grabbed some dinner at The Last Drop where we enjoyed a fabulous dinner on the water. My favorite part was the raspberry cheesecake for dessert. So good!


Ornate Gothic church chapel with stained glass altar and statue; a robed monk stands by the doorway in warm light
St. Colman's Cathedral

Day 3: Mizen Head & Killarney National Park


Today started off at the most south-westerly point of Ireland and ended with a stay at a hotel owned by Justin's distant relatives!


Visitors walk along a wooden cliffside bridge above a sparkling ocean, with steep green cliffs and a bright cloudy sky.
Mizen Head Bridge

Mizen Head

Famous for being Ireland's most south-westerly point and known for its steep sea cliffs, the iconic high footbridge, and a historic fog signal station, this is a stop that will leave you breathless. Literally! Upon arrival, you'll pay your €7.50 entrance fee, then start by crossing the iconic bridge and descending the 99 steps to reach the outer rock platform. After taking some time to explore the signal station built back in 1909, which is now an award-winning maritime museum, it was time to climb the stairs back up! As if that wasn't enough, we then went back down to check out the natural sea arch. It was a lot of climbing, but the views were worth it.


Rugged sea cliffs with crashing waves under a bright blue sky and scattered clouds, a dramatic coastal landscape.
Cliffs at Mizen Head

Killarney National Park

This was another one of those spots that I wish we had more time at. Before we even arrived, I knew we wouldn't have time for half of what I had on my list, so I narrowed it down to starting at the Muckross House and seeing what we had time for after that. We only explored the outside of the house and the grounds, but it was so beautiful there. Situated in the heart of Killarney National Park, there were jaw-dropping views from every angle. We wandered the grounds a bit before noticing a sign for a walking trail to the Torc Waterfall! That was another spot on my list that I thought we'd have to drive to, but walking the short trail through the park was a far more ideal option. Another option would be to hire a horse-drawn carriage! We saw plenty of those carting tourists through the park as we walked! What a fun and unique way to see the park.


Stone manor house with tall gabled windows, trimmed hedges, and curved steps in a formal garden under a cloudy sky.
Muckross House

We ended the day at The Lake Hotel. The historic, family-run hotel isn't managed by just any family. It is run by some of Justin's distant relatives. Although I didn't get to meet any of them this trip, Justin did on his last trip to Ireland, and just knowing that made this stay a little extra special. Of course, the beautiful grounds, delicious restaurant, and spacious room didn't hurt either! How cool is it that there are castle ruins located right here on the hotel property? You don't see things like that in the US!


Tiered waterfall cascades through lush green forest over mossy rocks, surrounded by dense trees and ferns.
Torc Waterfall

Day 4: Skellig Michael Landing Tour & Kerry Cliffs


When the day started, we had no idea if our Skellig Michael landing tour was even going to happen. The important thing to know about these tours is that they are very weather-dependent and are often canceled due to unsafe water conditions. When we checked in the night before, we were alerted that the tour was expected to be canceled, but the final call wouldn't be made until right before it was time to leave.


Skellig Michael

As we were packing up to head out in the morning, we received the text we were waiting for. Our landing tour was happening! We picked this particular day for our tour because it was Justin's birthday and planned our whole trip around it. This was the one thing that Justin really wanted to do, and I was beyond relieved to learn that it was going to happen!


Smiling woman sits on a rocky cliff above the ocean, with a distant island, boats, and cloudy sky behind her.
Karen on Skellig Michael with Little Skellig in the distance

Since we stayed the night in Killarney and had to drive to Portmagee, we had to hit the road pretty early. This drive took us along a portion of the Ring of Kerry, and the views were spectacular and really helped set the vibes for today's adventure.


Finally, we arrived in Portmagee and boarded our boat! The boat ride over wasn't too rough, but it definitely wasn't smooth! Before arriving at Skellig Michael, we went past Little Skellig. This smaller island is home to one of the world’s largest Northern Gannet colonies, with roughly 35,000 breeding pairs. While it is illegal to land on the island, we got close enough to see the massive number of birds nesting on the rock face and flying past. It's hard to believe that these birds were once nearly hunted to extinction! We also got a good look at the part of the island known as the Elephant Trunk. It really did look just like an elephant's trunk!


Jagged rocky sea stack with birds flying overhead above blue ocean under cloudy sky, dramatic coastal landscape
Elephant Trunk

Now for the real adventure, we arrived at the dock on Skellig Michael, which was little more than a few concrete steps. With the harshness of the water, we found ourselves having to step from the boat to the steps while the boat was moving back and forth. Our guides did their best to secure the boat and assist us onto the dock, but it still wasn't the easiest thing to do. Once everyone was off the boat, we headed to the start of the trail for a quick safety briefing.


Then it was time for the real work to begin. To get to the monastery on the top of the island, you had to climb hundreds of uneven stone steps up the side of the island. The guides told us to expect it to take 30-45 minutes to get to the top. We wanted to get up as fast as possible to have more time to explore and managed to make it up in 12 minutes! Yes, we were rushing, but we're also in good shape and used to climbing mountains at high elevation in Colorado. If you aren't used to this sort of activity, take your time and stop frequently to take in the view.


Smiling woman in sunglasses stands on a rocky cliff path above a sparkling ocean with small boats and green grass slopes.
Karen climbing the stairs of Skellig Michael

Established between the 6th and 8th centuries, the monastery was built to seek extreme isolation and spiritual devotion. It was said that the higher you were, the closer you were to God, so what better spot to build a monastery than at the top of a steep mountain? Typically, there were 12 monks and 1 abbot living on the island in the beehive-shaped huts. Due to its well-preserved monastic remains and its representation of early Christian life in Europe in an extreme environment, it was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.


Exploring the site was truly incredible, and I can't recommend it enough. Unfortunately, we ended up not having as much time as we would have liked, as shortly after we arrived at the top, it started to rain. While the rain wasn't bad yet, we worried that it would get worse and become hazardous to climb down the stairs. We didn't want to risk it, so we started the journey back. Of course, as soon as we started down, the rain stopped, so we could have stayed longer, but it was better to be safe than sorry!


Tourists sit beside ancient stone beehive huts under a blue sky with clouds.
Beehive Huts

The boat ride back was far worse than the ride getting there. The seas had become rougher, and even though the guides tried their best to shield the passengers from the spray, I ended up soaked still! Luckily, I had my raincoat on, so it was manageable, and if I'm being honest, I found it to be kind of fun!


There are a handful of tour operators that are permitted to run tours to Skellig Michael. We went with Casey Skellig Michael Tours and were very happy with them. The tour costs €145 which is more than I would generally pay for an excursion, but it was worth every penny for such a unique experience.


Smiling couple stands by a stone wall on a coastal cliff, with blue ocean, distant rocky island, and hazy sky behind them.
Justin and Karen at the top of Skellig Michael with Little Skellig in the distance

Kerry Cliffs

After we got off the boat, we headed over to the Kerry Cliffs. We had seen them from the water, but I still wanted to experience them from the shore. Entrance to the cliffs costs around €5 per person, and there is a large, free parking lot. Widely accepted as the most spectacular cliffs in Kerry, these cliffs stand at over 1,000 ft above the Atlantic. You can even see Skellig Michael and Little Skellig in the distance. Being able to look out and say "I was there" only added to the excitement of the views.


Don't forget to look behind you and see the views of the town and the horses in the field. To me, it felt like the epitome of what I would expect Ireland to look like.


Steep striped sea cliffs above the ocean under a cloudy sky, with tiny hikers along the grassy cliff top.
Kerry Cliffs

Limerick

We had a bit of a drive ahead of us to get to our hotel in Limerick, so we hopped back in the car and hit the road. Upon arrival, we checked into the Limerick Strand Hotel. Located in the heart of Limerick, this hotel was just steps away from food, shopping, and the River Shannon. Our room was gorgeous, and we had an enclosed balcony that offered great views of the city without being exposed to the elements. For Justin's birthday dinner, we ended up at West Lake Asian Street Food. It was close to our hotel and offered some really good food!


After dinner, we walked around town a bit. We walked past St. Mary's Cathedral and King John's Castle before walking along the River Shannon back to our hotel, watching the sunset paint the sky orange as we went.


Stone castle walls and round towers by a river at sunset, under pink clouds, with a calm historic mood.
King John's Castle

Day 5: Cliffs of Moher & Galway


While most people want to visit the Cliffs of Moher, I was here to see the Cliffs of Insanity. That's a Princess Bride reference if you didn't know. The scenes of the Cliffs of Insanity were filmed at the Cliffs of Moher.


Cliffs of Moher

Most people start their journey at the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Center. For €15.00, you can walk the paved path and take in great views of the cliffs. We chose a different option. We started in the town of Doolin and made our way along the Cliffs of Moher Cliff Walk. This 6.5 km trail takes you along the coast and past fields filled with horses and cows. There were plenty of others on the walk but not so many that it ever felt crowded. Be cautious on this trail though, you are fairly close to the edge, so watch your footing and wear sturdy shoes. Watching the horses run through the fields was probably my favorite part. I had never seen horses this active before, and it was so fun to watch. I stopped along the trail at one point to take a picture near a horse, and boy was I ever surprised when it leaned over and bit me! I never expected that! It didn't hurt a lot, but it sure shocked me!


Woman laughing beside a brown horse in a fenced coastal field by the sea under a cloudy sky.
Karen being bit by a horse!

There are a few great spots along the walk to stop and take in the views. We were lucky to have amazing weather on our visit, but keep in mind the weather can be very unpredictable and change quickly. Another thing to keep in mind is that you won't be able to get to the Visitor Center or Cliffs of Moher experience from the coastal trail, so if you're looking for the traditional viewpoints, I'd recommend paying the money to go there. If you're just looking for a stunning walk, take the coastal trail!


Grassy cliff overlook with towering dark sea cliffs, a lone sea stack, and calm gray ocean under cloudy sky
The Cliffs of Moher

Galway

We had thought we'd make another stop or so on our way to Galway, but found we were pretty tired after the walk. Just driving through the Irish countryside was enjoyable enough. Everywhere you turned, there was something new to admire.


When we arrived in Galway, we first headed to our hotel to check in and drop off our bags. We stayed at The Huntsman Inn and somehow ended up in a room that was on its own floor! How cool is that?! The room was wonderfully decorated and very spacious. I'd still love to know who thought putting a glass door in the bathroom was a good idea though! You'd have to actually try to see the toilet or shower, but it was still just a bizarre concept to me!


We then walked to the city center (you could also drive or take the bus) and decided we really wanted ice cream, so we found a spot in town and wandered through an open-air market that was just finishing up at the park. And maybe had a crepe to go along with our ice cream! We then headed back to the room for some downtime after the fast-paced few days we'd had so far.


Pink hotel room with a king bed, leather chairs, lamp, and ensuite bathroom visible through open wooden doors.
Our room at The Huntsman Inn

Day 6: Kylemore Abbey, Croagh Patrick, and Slieve League


Knowing today was going to be a busy one, we decided to get an early start. Maybe too early! I hadn't planned to get going this early and hadn't thought to check when places open.


Kylemore Abbey

We arrived so early that the abbey wasn't even open yet. I had hoped to at least be able to wander the grounds but even that was gated off. Luckily, we could still get some good views from across the lake and admire the building from a distance. Even if we couldn't get up close, seeing it with the lake and mountain in the background was a fantastic way to start the day.


This scenic neo-Gothic castle sits set against a Connemara mountain lake. Originally built as Kylemore Castle between 1867 and 1868 as a romantic gift, it was later transformed into a historic Benedictine monastery. For €18, you can spend the day exploring the restored rooms and multimedia Abbey experience, wandering the Victorian Walled Garden, learning about the Neo-Gothic Church & Mausoleum, and exploring the Kylemore Woodlands Trails & Tales.


Stone castle-like mansion beside a lake, framed by lush green forested hills and calm water on a quiet overcast day
Kylemore Abbey

Croagh Patrick

In the long run, it ended up being a good thing that we arrived too early to explore Kylemore Abbey. Our next stop, Croagh Patrick, was one I knew little about going into it. It wasn't part of the itinerary I'd created but was recommended to us a few weeks prior at a family reunion. Justin wanted to do this hike and figured it would be a nice little hike in the Irish countryside. Until I looked up the hike stats, that is. Turns out this is not a nice little hike but a very demanding 4.7-mile hike with 2,411 ft in elevation gain! The views from the top though? Worth every step.


Smiling hiker with backpack on rocky mountain trail, other hikers and sheep on slopes under cloudy sky over wide valley.
Karen climbing to the top of Croagh Patrick

This is considered Ireland's Holy Mountain. A cone-shaped peak that rises above Clew Bay and is where the Irish have always turned for guidance and reassurance before the harvest. It is also reportedly the site where, in 441 AD, St. Patrick fasted for 40 days and nights before banishing the snakes from Ireland. Around 20,000 to 25,000 pilgrims still climb the mountain each year on the last Sunday in July (the nearest Sunday to the original pagan festival of Lughnasa).


Smiling couple on a rocky mountain overlook a bay dotted with islands and green fields under a cloudy sky.
Karen & Justin at the top

Because this is such a popular hike, parking fills up quickly. It was lucky that we had such an early start because even then we barely managed to find a spot. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water. We were running low on water when we arrived and had to purchase some overpriced water from the visitor center. Still, I'd rather spend too much on water than run out! Bring some snacks too! You'll need to keep your energy up on the hike, and there's nothing as rewarding as a summit snack!


Smiling woman stands by Croagh Patrick sign on rocky summit, overlooking cloudy bay and islands.
Karen at the top with the Croagh Patrick sign

Slieve League

We had a pretty long drive ahead of us to get to our next stop, so we grabbed some quick sandwiches for lunch and hit the road. After all the energy we exerted on the hike, those little sandwiches weren't quite enough, and we arrived at Slieve League right around dinner time but decided to go check them out real quick. What I didn't realize was that we'd still have to walk a pretty steep road, and we were tired and hungry! We both started to feel a little lightheaded, and it really made the experience a little less enjoyable.


But had we been a little better prepared, we would have loved this stop! Slieve League features some of the highest and most dramatic cliffs in Europe, rising 1,972 feet above the Atlantic. They are nearly three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher. We only went as far as the first viewpoint, but there is plenty of hiking to other viewpoints. I would have loved to hike the Pilgrim's Path. Maybe on our next visit!


Rugged sea cliffs above a calm bay under a cloudy sky, with heather-covered foreground and dark water.
Slieve League

We wrapped up the night at the most adorable little place, Caisleain Oir Hotel. Honestly, I wish we could have lingered there a bit longer. It's the kind of charming spot where you'd love to kick back and relax. If only I knew how to do that while traveling!


Day 7: Glenvaugh National Park, Giant's Causeway, & Belfast


Today included one of my favorite stops of the whole trip! But first, we had to cross the border into Northern Ireland. I happened to be the one driving when we crossed over and was very surprised to learn that the UK uses miles per hour instead of kilometers per hour like the rest of Ireland. Unfortunately, our rental car only had an analog speedometer, which meant we couldn't change it from KPH to MPH, so we ended up relying on Google Maps to help us watch our speed. To make things even more interesting, the car would read speed limit signs as it passed and would beep at us anytime we went over the speed limit, which, seeing as we were now driving in MPH, was all the time... but I'm getting a little ahead of myself. Before crossing the border, we had a stop to make!


Serene lakeside landscape with pine trees, rocky mountains, blue water and a bench in the foreground under a clear sky.
Glenvaugh National Park

Glenvaugh National Park

Located in the heart of County Donegal, among the wild and rugged landscape of the Derryveagh Mountains, is Glenveagh National Park. Here you can find plenty of hiking trails, wildlife, and a stunning Victorian castle and gardens situated along Lough Veagh.


We started at the Visitor Center where we learned a bit about the park and decided to walk the trail from there to the castle. There is the option to take a bus for a few euros, but we chose to walk. We did consider booking the bus back from the castle, though! Admission to the park and the grounds is free; however, if you want to take a tour of the castle, it is €10 for a self-guided tour or €15 for a guided tour when booked ahead of time. As with so many of the places we visited, we opted to simply wander the grounds and take in the views.


Stone castle with round tower and battlements under a bright blue sky, with ivy and black lampposts.
Glenvaugh Castle

Giant's Causeway

One theme of this trip was that everything took longer than I planned for, so as we were driving towards Giant's Causeway, we had to decide if we wanted to spend more time here and skip the final planned stop of the day or try to rush the causeway. We decided to skip the final stop.


With our additional time, we added a hike to Hamilton's Seat. It was roughly 4 miles round trip and took us along the cliff edges. After we passed the first fork in the trail, we hardly saw any other people. It was so peaceful up there on the cliffs all alone. Well, aside from the sheep in the nearby fields!


Smiling woman stands on grassy cliff above rocky sea cliffs and calm ocean under bright cloudy sky.
Karen with the view from Hamilton's Seat

After the hike was my favorite part of the whole trip! This geological wonder features roughly 40,000 interlocking, geometric basalt columns. It is truly a wonder how nature can create something so spectacular. Of course, according to legend, it wasn't built by nature at all. It was created by the giant Finn McCool to cross the sea and battle with a Scottish rival! No matter which you choose to believe, wandering among the columns will leave you in awe.


Woman sitting on dark basalt columns beneath a green cliff and blue sky, smiling in a sunny rocky landscape.
Karen sitting on the basalt columns

Belfast

After a long day, we headed to Belfast. We stayed at The Harrison Chambers of Distinction, and this was hands down the most interesting hotel I'd ever stayed at! The decorations were eclectic, to say the least, and I could have spent hours just wandering the halls. My favorite part the the hallway that was made to look like the closet from The Chronicles of Narnia! We had dinner at the Abacus Chinese Restaurant ,which was right down the street from our hotel. I'm not sure how many nights of this trip we ended up eating Asian food ,but it was good, so why mess with a good thing?


Ornate red-brick townhouse row with bay windows and trees; doors marked 47, Harrison, and FACE Regeneration under a calm sky
The Harrison Chambers of Distinction

Day 8: Portavogie Beach & Tollymore Forest Park


Today was our last full day of this trip, but somehow the most magical. I finally got to go into the ocean, went hunting for seashells, and walked through a forest that I swear was home to fairies and elves!


Portavogie Beach

I wanted to go to this beach in particular because I'd heard you can find these amazing scallop shells! We had a little difficulty finding somewhere to park, so we had to wander a little longer along the shore before we got to the beach. I didn't mind, though. I was so happy splashing in the water and looking for shells. That is until I noticed my first jellyfish! It was a little way out in the water from where I was splashing, and I quickly made my way back to shore... where I saw another one and another one! There were so many of them. I can't say I wanted to get back into the water after that.


A brown jellyfish floats in clear shallow surf over sandy beach, with rippling water and bright sunlight.
Jellyfish

It didn't stop me from searching for the shells, though! Right as I was starting to get disappointed, thinking that social media had lied to me, I found my first shell. Then I started to see more and more of them. I quickly had collected around 20 of them and easily could have gotten more if I kept looking. I was content with my little collection, though. I laid them out on the beach, took a bunch of pictures, then redistributed them so the next person could experience the joy of the hunt!


Cluster of pastel scallop shells arranged on wet, rippled beach sand.
My shell collection

Tollymore Forest Park

To reach our next destination, we got to travel by a very unique method: a car ferry! We managed to get super lucky and pulled up just minutes before the ferry left. After unloading, we continued our journey to Tollymore Forest Park.


Covering 630 hectares at the foot of the Mourne Mountains, it features ancient woodlands, gothic stone structures, and the winding Shimna River. Parking costs £5 per car. We wanted to do a hike, but after everything we'd done so far this week, we didn't want to do anything too crazy. We chose to do the Tollymore River Trail, which is an easy 3.8-mile hike following the winding Shimna River past Parnell’s Bridge, the Hermitage, the Pot of Legawherry, and the Old Bridge. As we wandered through the forest, I became convinced that if faeries and elves were real, this is where they lived. I guess it makes sense why some episodes of Game of Thrones were filmed here!


Woman walks on a forest trail beside a mossy stream under lush green trees.
Karen walking through Tollymore Forest Park

We ended our day near Dublin since we had an early flight out the next morning. We stayed at the Boyne Valley Hotel, and it was a really peaceful spot to spend our final night in Ireland while still being close to the airport.


Final Thoughts on Our Ireland Road Trip


After so many years of dreaming of a trip to Ireland, I can't believe it's over! This was a dream trip in so many ways, and even though it was a whirlwind of a trip, I am very happy with everything we were able to see and do. I know this type of travel isn't for everyone, so don't be afraid to pick one part of the country and really explore it. The one thing I will say is to make sure you include a mix of city and country. I hear stories of people who go to Ireland and never leave Dublin, but the countryside, in my opinion, is where Ireland really gets its chance to shine.


Smiling woman in sunglasses takes a selfie on a cloudy beach with gentle waves and seaweed on wet sand.
Karen on Portavogie Beach

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