Badlands & Bison: A Visit to Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Karen Israel
Feb 20
4 min read

When you think of the American West, images of rugged badlands, roaming bison, and wide-open skies often come to mind. Theodore Roosevelt National Park offers all this and more, spread across three units in western North Dakota. I’ve spent time exploring the North and South units and I want to share what makes each unique, along with tips to help you get the most out of your visit.

Bison grazing on a grassy hill, with rocky cliffs in the background. Earthy tones and sparse vegetation create a serene, natural scene.

Exploring the South Unit

The South Unit, near Medora, North Dakota, is the largest and most visited section of the park. It covers about 70,000 acres and offers a mix of badlands, grasslands, and river valleys.

Highlights of the South Unit

The Scenic Loop Drive: This 36-mile drive is the best way to see the park’s diverse landscapes. It passes through the Little Missouri River valley and offers views of towering buttes and wildlife.
Hiking Opportunities: Trails like the Wind Canyon Trail and the Caprock Coulee Trail provide access to stunning viewpoints and unique rock formations.
Wildlife: The South Unit has a large bison herd and is also home to elk, mule deer, and coyotes. I recommend stopping at the Painted Canyon Overlook for sweeping views and a chance to spot animals.
Historic Sites: The Maltese Cross Cabin, Roosevelt’s former ranch home, is located here. It’s a fascinating glimpse into his life and the early conservation movement.

Vast landscape of rugged, multicolored hills with green vegetation under a clear blue sky, creating a serene and expansive view. — View of the badlands from the Big Plateau and Ekblom Loop Trail

Tips for the South Unit

Arrive early or late in the day for the best wildlife sightings.
The park can get busy in summer, so plan accordingly.
There are several campgrounds, including the Juniper Campground, which offers a quieter experience.
Check the weather before you go; the area can be windy and temperatures vary widely.

Horses grazing beside a road with a grassy hill in the background. The scene is peaceful and the colors are warm and muted. — Wild horses

Our Experience in the South Unit

We spent our first day at Theodore Roosevelt NP in the South Unit. We first wanted to drive the scenic loop to take in all the sights. There was construction on the scenic loop so we weren't able to drive the whole way and had to instead do it as an out and back. After completing the loop, we headed back to Medora to grab lunch at the Little Missouri Saloon & Dining Room and fuel up for a hike. Over lunch we went over our options and decided to hike the Big Plateau and Ekblom Loop Trail. This 6.5 mile hike took us through grasslands full of prairie dogs and views over the badlands. The hike started with a river crossing which I wasn't expecting but really enjoyed! The water was 2-3 ft but slow moving enough to be refreshing! There was another river crossing towards the end of the hike that was deep mud at the bottom. That one was far less enjoyable as we sank so far into the mud trying to cross! Thankfully it wasn't super far from the original river crossing so we were able to wash the mud off.

Two people smiling while standing in a sunny river. One wears a hat and sunglasses reflecting the scene. Greenery and hills in the background. — The river crossing

Discovering the North Unit

The North Unit is the smaller of the two but packed with dramatic scenery and wildlife. It’s located near the town of Watford City and covers about 44,000 acres. The landscape here features striking badlands formations, deep canyons, and rolling prairie.

What to See and Do

Scenic Drive: The 14-mile loop road is a must. It winds through the heart of the badlands, offering multiple pullouts for photos and wildlife viewing. I recommend starting early to catch the soft morning light and avoid crowds.
Hiking Trails: There are several trails ranging from easy walks to more challenging hikes. The Caprock Coulee Trail is a favorite, offering panoramic views of the rugged terrain.
Wildlife Watching: Bison, wild horses, prairie dogs, and deer are common sights. We spotted several bison hiking the Caprock Coulee trail and along the scenic drive.
Visitor Center: Stop by the North Unit Visitor Center to learn about the park’s history and Roosevelt’s conservation legacy. Rangers there can also provide current trail conditions and wildlife updates.

Rugged badlands landscape with layered rock formations and sparse vegetation. Overcast sky enhances a serene, earthy atmosphere.

Tips for Visiting the North Unit

Bring plenty of water and sun protection. The badlands offer little shade.
Binoculars enhance wildlife viewing.
The roads can be rough in spots, so drive carefully.
Camping is available at the Cottonwood Campground, but spots fill quickly in summer.

Two bison stand amidst brush in a grassy field, with a blurred forest background. The scene is calm, highlighting their dark brown fur.

Our Experience in the North Unit

The North Unit, which is about an hour away from the South Unit, offers fewer crowds and often a better chance to spot wildlife because of that. We spent the second day of our trip here. As with the South Unit we started with the scenic drive to take in all the sights before setting out on a hike. Since this drive is shorter than the other, it didn't take nearly as long to drive leaving us plenty of time to hike! We decided to hike the 4 mile Caprock Coulee Loop. This trail leads you through dry washes and to viewpoints of the Little Missouri River. Since there isn't a town nearby for lunch like with the South Unit, we brought some snacks with us on the hike to enjoy while taking in the scenic views along the trail.

Scenic view of grassy badlands with a meandering river, hills, and lush green trees under a partly cloudy sky. Rugged terrain in the foreground.

Making the Most of Your Visit

Whether you choose the North or South Unit, or both, here are some practical tips to enhance your experience:

Plan Your Time: Each unit deserves at least a full day. If you have time, spending two days lets you explore trails and enjoy wildlife watching without rushing.
Pack Smart: Bring layered clothing, sturdy shoes, sunscreen, insect repellent, and plenty of water.
Respect Wildlife: Keep a safe distance from animals, especially bison. Use binoculars or zoom lenses for close-up views.
Photography: Sunrise and sunset provide the best light for capturing the park’s colors and textures.
Local Attractions: Near the South Unit, the town of Medora offers dining, lodging, and the Medora Musical, a popular outdoor show celebrating western heritage.

Woman sitting on a rock, facing a lush valley and rocky hills. Wearing a purple top and shorts. Hair flows in the breeze, peaceful scene.

Why Theodore Roosevelt National Park Stands Out

This park is more than just beautiful scenery. It honors Theodore Roosevelt’s passion for conservation and his role in protecting America’s natural heritage. Walking the trails and driving the loops, you get a sense of the land that inspired Roosevelt’s conservation policies. The park’s blend of badlands, prairie, and wildlife offers a unique experience that feels both wild and accessible.

Visiting both units gives you a fuller picture of the park’s diversity. The North Unit feels more remote and rugged, while the South Unit offers more amenities and historic sites. Together, they showcase the spirit of the American West and Roosevelt’s legacy.